Tips For Buying A Chicken Coop

Tips For Buying A Chicken Coop 

October 31, 2021

(Our chicken coop on a rainy day!)

When you're buying a coop, there are several things to take into consideration regarding the location and design- things like coop size, location, elevation, etc. Keep reading for more tips on buying a chicken coop!

Size:

Conventional rule of thumb is 2-4 square feet of interior coop floor space per hen, dependent on the size of your birds (bantams need less, Jersey Giants need more) and how many waking hours they spend in the coop. My rule of thumb: Build your coop a lot bigger than you think you'll need.

Location:

If your coop is going to be stationary, versus a movable tractor-type coop, then the location is very important.

In the warm southern climates, you'll want to situate it in the shade. If you live in a more northern climate, then locating your coop in the sun will be more beneficial. 

You should also consider whether your run will be attached to your coop at one end or if your coop will sit inside a pen like ours does.

Elevation:

A raised coop will prevent predators from digging and burrowing underneath and keep the wooden floor from rotting.

Another advantage of a raised coop is that is provides welcome shelter from sun in the summer and sleet and snow in the winter for your chickens.

Raising the coop up at least 8 to 12 inches keeps it high enough that the chickens can easily fit underneath while preventing rodents from taking up residence.

Flooring:

Coop flooring is another consideration. Dirt floors are easily breached by predators, concrete is expensive and often not a DIY option. Wood floors can house mites and other parasites.

Roosts:

Rule of thumb on roosts is to allow 8" per hen. The reality is that all your hens will squeeze together at one end of the coop leaving 90 percent of the available roost space empty. Regardless, plan on enough roost space for the eventual number of hens you plan on raising.

Using two-by-fours with the 4 inch side facing up works well for roosting bars. You can even round the top edges a bit if you want. The flat side helps keep the chickens' feet hidden under their bodies and protected from frostbite in the winter.

Nesting Boxes:

Rule of thumb on nesting boxes is one box for every three to four hens. Nesting boxes should be 12 to 14 inches square and be positioned lower than your roosts so the chickens won't perch on them. As long as your nesting boxes are positioned lower than at least your highest roosts, the chickens shouldn't be tempted to sleep in the nesting boxes (and poop!) which leads to dirty eggs.

Reality is, no matter how many you have, all your chickens will want to lay in the same one...at the same time. So don't stress over the number of boxes in your coop. Add as many as you will fit comfortably in the coop.

Even easier, you can just set some wooden crates and fill them with soft nesting material.

Vents:

One-fifth of the total wall space of your coop should be vented. Good ventilation and air flow is very important, winter and summer, in a coop. So go ahead and cut some vents in your coop walls!

Latches:

Coop doors and nesting box covers need to be fitted with secure latches. Raccoons can turn knobs, untie knots, undo bungee cords, lift latches and slide deadbolts.

Spring-loaded eye hooks work nicely on our nesting box lids and coop doors. They come in various sizes and will keep predators out. Latches secured with carabiners or padlocks also work well.

By taking these factors into consideration when choosing a coop, I think you will find yourself with a very functional coop that you are pleased with for years to come!